This expression is usually used to describe a biography of an author and their entire work. It leaves aside the editor, the printer, the book-seller and above all the readers, without whom the work, the author and all the associated professions would simply not exist. In just the same way, perfume is a thread running between the Nose, the primary materials, the manufacturer, the seller, the critics and of course the consumer who ultimately makes or breaks the perfume depending on whether the Nose manages to arouse an emotion, a sensation or even a revolution.
The Nose is not just a lover of fine fragrances. He or she is also a chemist with a degree, usually from ISIPCA(*). The list of famous Noses includes Edmond Roudnitska, a leading light in the 1960s. He created perfumes such as Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, Femme de Rochas and Eau d'Hermès, and worked hard to make his art better known. In the 1970s, the globalisation of markets changed everything. Marketing took precedence over artistic creation and for some 20 years the perfumery sector expanded at a dizzying rate.
(*) Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l'Aromatique alimentaire
Since the beginning of the 1990s the Noses have been regaining ground : Annick Goutal, Serge Lutens, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, Frédéric Malle, etc. New life is being breathed into old brands. The "niche" perfumery sector is exploding. The demand for these perfumes forced a reaction from big brands who have begun putting out exclusive collections too.
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